I now have something to store my cameras and I'm happy wtih how this project turned out. I did have some frustrating moments, such as my Bernina decided to stop working and was in the shop for a month, but lucky me I still had my old Singer that worked perfectly fine. As for the project itself here are some tips below, which I hope prove helpful to you if you decide to make this project.
I'm not sure if all parachute buckles are all created equal because if so I did find one minor errata with the clasp tabs pattern. I created the clasp pattern (3-1/2 x 3-1/2) and sewed it ( using a1/4 in. seam allowance as stated in step 9 "refer back to step 6") three different times following the instructions. The clasp tabs came out each time about half inch too large, which wouldn't go through the 1 inch buckle opening. I purchased a larger parachute buckle, to accommodate the tabs, but when I received it by mail I looked at it and decided the larger size would overwhelm the front of the bag. This meant creating a new square for the clasp tabs with different dimensions. The new square measured 3 by 3 with a half inch seam allowance built in--this worked perfectly with the 1 inch parachute buckle opening.
The corduroy fabric shifted quite a lot especially when attempting to sew the contrast band around the bottom of the bag. Using pins to keep the fabrics from shifting and getting the alignment of the contrast fabric correct didn't help me very much. After attempting to sew the contrast band at the bottom several times without success I decided to use cotton basting thread to secure the band instead of pins. Cotton basting thread is so wonderful! It always seems to solve tricky problems in sewing. It may take some extra time , but the payoff is great! Everything stayed put and I was able to sew the topstitch quickly and without any further problems.
The instructions in the book called for pressing a certain amount of seam allowance before proceeding to the next step. Something that helps me out when any sewing instructions call for advance pressing is to run a basting seam for whatever amount of seam allowance they ask to be pressed. For example, If its 1/4 inch I will run a basting line this amount from the edge-- then use this as a guide to press in that amount. I find this easier than drawing a line with a ruler or using a ruler as I go along.
For this project one of several tools I used was a seam roll. I used the roll to help with the pressing of the corduroy fabric. I laid the fabric on top of the seam roll-- then used short bursts of steam on the seam allowance-- then finger pressed the seam allowance open. I used this pressing method because corduroy is a nap fabric that requires greater care than non-nap fabrics.
Although, the instructions said to use the sewing machine to apply the binding to the top portion of the bag I went ahead and hand sewed it in. I began with the machine, but it proved too awkward to sew--the bag was nearly complete--hardware and all attached and I began having problems. I decided it would easier to hand sew it in and this would actually save me time in the long run. Note: Before cutting out your fabric--double check that your pattern pieces are lined up correctly (i.e. wales paralel as stated in book )
One last tip-- I like keeping my sewing book(s) at eye level while I sew and I utilize my clear cookbook stand to help me out with this. I find this small but important technique so much better than having it lay flat on my table (there is a reason why music stands exist and this is my music stand). :)
Hopefully, these suggestions are helpful for all your sewing endeavours--happy sewing!
The corduroy fabric shifted quite a lot especially when attempting to sew the contrast band around the bottom of the bag. Using pins to keep the fabrics from shifting and getting the alignment of the contrast fabric correct didn't help me very much. After attempting to sew the contrast band at the bottom several times without success I decided to use cotton basting thread to secure the band instead of pins. Cotton basting thread is so wonderful! It always seems to solve tricky problems in sewing. It may take some extra time , but the payoff is great! Everything stayed put and I was able to sew the topstitch quickly and without any further problems.
The instructions in the book called for pressing a certain amount of seam allowance before proceeding to the next step. Something that helps me out when any sewing instructions call for advance pressing is to run a basting seam for whatever amount of seam allowance they ask to be pressed. For example, If its 1/4 inch I will run a basting line this amount from the edge-- then use this as a guide to press in that amount. I find this easier than drawing a line with a ruler or using a ruler as I go along.
For this project one of several tools I used was a seam roll. I used the roll to help with the pressing of the corduroy fabric. I laid the fabric on top of the seam roll-- then used short bursts of steam on the seam allowance-- then finger pressed the seam allowance open. I used this pressing method because corduroy is a nap fabric that requires greater care than non-nap fabrics.
Although, the instructions said to use the sewing machine to apply the binding to the top portion of the bag I went ahead and hand sewed it in. I began with the machine, but it proved too awkward to sew--the bag was nearly complete--hardware and all attached and I began having problems. I decided it would easier to hand sew it in and this would actually save me time in the long run. Note: Before cutting out your fabric--double check that your pattern pieces are lined up correctly (i.e. wales paralel as stated in book )
One last tip-- I like keeping my sewing book(s) at eye level while I sew and I utilize my clear cookbook stand to help me out with this. I find this small but important technique so much better than having it lay flat on my table (there is a reason why music stands exist and this is my music stand). :)
Hopefully, these suggestions are helpful for all your sewing endeavours--happy sewing!
11 comments:
thank you for the details on this bag -- it's on my to-do list!
I especially love the tip of sewing the pressing allowance - brillant... I measure as I press and find it frustrating -- I love this idea - and will for sure be using it :) thank you!
Running the basting thread is my favorite thing ever--and glad to hear it'll help you out as well. :)
~Beca
That's a beautiful bag you've there! I love the corduroy in combination with the other fabric you used. You did a terrific job!
Would you possibly be willing to recreate one of these bags for me:)
My email is wplott@gmail.com
Really cool bag!
What material did you use for filling, so it would stay strong? Porolon?
Liis-I used foam to make it sturdy-no filling was used. Just use the pattern(s) to cut it out. And Wendi thank you for your comment-I enjoyed making this bag up, but was very happy when this project was finished and don't think I will be making another one up for awhile anyway. :)
I found your blog through your flickr pictures. I just picked up this book tonight to make a camera bag.
I intended to just wing it, but I just don't feel like troubleshooting-so I picked up the book instead!
Do you have any more suggestions for this? Do you find that the d-ring tabs are secure enough on the sides of the bag? And does your top flap gap open at all? I noticed in someone else's flickr that the top flap didn't seem to cover well. I was considering changing the shape of the top flap so that it came down more like a giftbox lid.
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!
QuiltyGirl.
The side tabs are secure, but I had to sew over them several times. The bag isn't "stiff" like, but soft all around. The flap does kind of stay put, but it does gap somewhat (it doesn't completely stay down). Also, when sewing the tabs just make sure they are super secure because they will be holding the weight of everything. When you put the strap on your shoulder the cord fabric at the sides (where tabs are located) kind of both drag up. Since this isn't a stiff bag it doesn't keep its shape once the camera is in and on your shoulder-its not floppy but its not stiff. I also had to do some hand sewing to close the top edges because the machine didn't like all they layers. This took me awhile to make--I'm not a speedy person. I hope this helped and I answered your questions--if you have more let me know.
You did a wonderful job! Thanks for sharing your tips!! I'm in the middle of this project right now. I was wondering where you got your swivel hooks, parachute buckle and slide adjuster from? My local craft stores only sell plastic parachute buckles and I can only find small swivel hooks. Thank you!!!
I'm looking to make a second one of these, I also had trouble with the top edge binding, but now my sister-in-law wants one soo.... Anyway, I saw yours and was wondering where you purchased your hardware. I'm looking for some online and all I can find is the cheap-o Dritz stuff.
Sorry its taken me awhile to answer your questions regarding hardware. I searched forever for metal swivel hooks and finally found these at myebestbuy.com under metal buckles. I purchased them from overseas via paypal and I received them rather quickly. The other day I was at our local Ace hardware store and I noticed metal swivel hooks, which weren't as polished but would have worked just as well...hope this helps.
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